Types of Weight
While we are beating weights to death here are some thoughts about styles of weights. If you are going to be a cold water diver you will probably be looking at 20 pounds or more of dive weights. Over time you will have a need to reconfigure for assorted reasons and will probably come to own an assortment of weights that you mix and match. The cost of dive gear adds up fast and lead weights are no exception. before you part with your cash consider the following.
Hard or Soft?
Hard weights are one piece castings made from melted lead. They are essentially indestructible and will last as long as you do as a diver. Worn right they should not be uncomfortable but they are solids. They are the most compact weights in terms of space. This can be important when packing them into places like integrated weight pockets. They are most commonly laced onto a weight belt.
The alternative is to use soft weights. these are mesh sacks filled with a variation of lead buckshot. They get packed into BC weight pockets or pocket format weight belts. Being non solid they do conform more to the body of the diver. Being mesh sacks there is a wear factor and eventually they will rupture spilling the lead contents. You will also find that with each rinsing there will be clouds of lead residue that comes from the pellets chaffing against each other. With all of the concerns we have about lead pollution and poisoning I suggest avoiding these weights. This same released dust will tend to stain gear that they are worn in or against. Soft weights come in a range of sizes
Lace Through vs. Pass Through/ Bullet
There are 2 basic shapes of hard weights. the difference lies in how the webbing is laced through them and how they relate to your body.
Lace through weights have 2 slots that run verticaly though the weight running from the diver outward. The weight belt webbing runs along the divers body and enters the weight through the first slot. It the weaves back into the second slot returning to the divers body. From there it runs along the divers body to the next weight or an endpoint. These weights tend to hang away from the diver and I find them more comfortable. Since webbing weaves in and out they will cause more variation in weight belt fit as you add and remove weights.
The second style is called the pass through or bullet. These have a single slot that passes through the weight. This slot runs along the divers body and the webbing just runs straight through from weight to weight. In some areas it is popular to rig an entire belt with 2 pound versions of these that are shaped like cylindrical bullets. This can make for a very simple and adjustable weight system. Novelty weights can also be found in the shape of hand grenades and hearts.
Coated or Plain
Solid weights are lead castings and as such aren't much to look at. You can get solid cast weights that have been dipped in a durable vinyl coating. This makes them colorful, easy to spot and cleaner to handle. While a solid weigh leaches very very little lead the coating does encapsulate the material and prevent gear staining. The coating is close to neutral in buoyancy so it has no effect.
Factory or Home Made
The casting of weights is a time honored tradition for divers and molds are readily available. Some shops have locally cast weights for sale. I have seen some nice bullet weights but in general the hand cast block weights suffer from the following issues. Weights generally vary a lot compared to a factory cast weight. This can amount to pounds of error when rigging a system. Most are made with open back molds. This puts the raw cast face which usually has rough edges against the diver. This can be hard on the webbing and exposure protection worn. The melting process probably strips away most contamination but I always wonder what sort of toxic stuff may be mixed into the salvaged metal.
Etceteras
Whatever you get for weights I suggest marking them with a paint pen. Make the weight and your initials readily visible. This makes things a lot simpler when rigging for a dive or after sharing some lead.
Consider adding a clip-on weight or 2 to your dive bag. They can be handy when doing weight checks and other odd tasks. These weights will have a bolt snap or carabiner cast into the weight. They can also double as a pass though weight.
Be sure to have weight keepers to hold your weights in place. I like to use 4 per belt so that the weights on each side stay in place and can never fall off. I like to reserve at least 8 inches of clear space on my back. This lowers my center of gravity for steadier swimming and leaves a nice place for the air cylinder to lay if it hangs that low.
If your need varies you can make a flexible weight belt with a mix of permanant weights and weight pockets with Velco closure flaps. I have one belt with a 5 pounder and a pocket on each side. By loading the poctets this belt serves me from 10-20 pounds and is quick and easy to configure. Remember to inlude weight keepers so things aren't sliding around.
This page created 5/31/10 Updated April 15, 2018